Pontremoli is the jewel of Lunigiana, boasting a rich historical heritage that makes it famous far beyond Tuscany. Pontremoli, a charming village in Lunigiana on the border between Tuscany and Liguria, is a must-see.

Have you ever been to Pontremoli? I adore Pontremoli so much that I always make a point to return to Piazza della Repubblica for a perfectly mixed spritz at Caffè Belotti.

Here are some of Pontremoli’s most famous facts:

• Ancient Via Francigena – Pontremoli was a crucial stop on the medieval Via Francigena, cited as “Pontremel” on the pilgrims’ route to Rome, making it a strategic crossroads.
• Prehistoric Stele Statues – The Piagnaro Castle Museum houses the Lunigiana stele statues, enigmatic prehistoric anthropomorphic figures among the oldest in Europe.
• Bancarella Literary Award – Since 1967, Pontremoli has been home to the renowned Bancarella Award, one of Italy’s most prestigious literary competitions, which has launched authors such as Ken Follett and Umberto Eco.
• Piagnaro Castle – The majestic Piagnaro Castle, built in the 11th century and rebuilt several times, dominates the city with its characteristic “piagne” tiles and offers breathtaking views of the Magra Valley.

Pilgrims and merchants passed through Pontremoli, fostering the exchange of culinary traditions. Today, this UNESCO gem attracts food lovers for its typical Pontremoli dishes, such as the renowned testaroli and farinata (or calda calda). These specialties, prepared with simple yet authentic ingredients, capture the rustic essence of Lunigiana cuisine. Ready to explore them? Andiamo!

Testaroli: The Queen of Poor Pasta

Testaroli are among the oldest fresh pastas in Italy. They are thin discs of dough made from flour, water, and salt, cooked on special wood-fired refractory terracotta “testi.” Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, they are traditionally served with pesto Genovese, lard, or mushroom sauce.

Mix the flour, water, and salt until the mixture forms a smooth, crepe-like consistency. Heat a non-stick pan over high heat and grease it with oil. Pour in ladles of batter and cook for 2-3 minutes per side until golden brown. Cut into diamonds and boil in salted water for 1-2 minutes. Season to taste with pesto sauce.

Farinata (or Calda Calda)

Pontremoli farinata, known locally as calda calda for its piping hot taste, is a savory chickpea flour focaccia. Unlike testaroli, it’s not pasta but a Ligurian Tuscan Street food, baked in the oven or on a hot griddle. Less hydrated, it’s crispier and more flavorful, ideal as an appetizer or snack.

Dissolve the flour in cold water, add salt, pepper, and 30 ml of oil. Let it rest for 2 hours. Preheat oven to 250°C (or griddle). Pour into an oiled baking dish (1 cm thick). Bake for 20-25 minutes until golden brown. Serve hot with black pepper.

You will surely find the best Calda Clada in Carrara, the city of marble.

Key differences between testaroli and farinata:

• Ingredients: Testaroli = wheat flour; farinata = chickpea flour.
• Consistency: testaroli soft and hollow; farinata crumbly and firm.
• Cooking: testaroli on a tray; farinata in a hot pan.
• Use: testaroli as a first course and farinata as a treat.

Here are 5 places between Pontremoli and the Carrara area where you have a good chance of finding testaroli and “calda calda”:

Pontremoli:

• Osteria da Bussé 1930 (Pontremoli)—Historic restaurant in Piazza del Duomo, specializing in traditional Lunigiana cuisine, excellent for fresh pasta dishes and local specialties such as testaroli with pesto or mushrooms.
• Taverna all’Oca Bianca (Pontremoli)—Restaurant with a rustic yet elegant atmosphere in the town center, offering a typical Tuscan-Lunigiana menu, a great place to sample traditional first courses and local specialties.
• Trattoria della Bietola (Pontremoli)—Simple and very local restaurant, serving home-cooked food and typical Lunigiana dishes; a good choice if you’re looking for a casual place for testaroli and homemade pasta dishes.

Carrara and coast:

• Osteria La Capinera (Carrara)—Osteria in the center of Carrara serving Tuscan and local cuisine, a family atmosphere, and a menu focused on traditional dishes; ask for testaroli or sgabei as an appetizer.
• Sgabeus Bistrot (Marina di Carrara)—A seaside restaurant dedicated to calda calda (sgabei), ideal if you want to focus on traditional fried food, accompanied by cured meats and cheeses.

To be sure, it’s always a good idea to call or check the menu online, as testaroli and calda calda may be daily specials and aren’t always on the menu. Benvenuti in Toscana!